Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
